What to Eat in Dawki Today?

Rice first

A Khasi meal is built on rice, with a meat or fish dish and a sharp chutney on the side. Portions are simple and filling, and flavours come from ginger, black sesame, local herbs and fermented soybean rather than heavy spice.

Jadoh

Jadoh is the dish to try first. It is red rice cooked with pork, or sometimes chicken, and ginger. Some versions are cooked with blood, which gives a darker colour and a deeper taste. Ask which kind you are getting if that matters to you. It is lunch food, and stalls often run out by mid-afternoon.

Tungrymbai

Tungrymbai is fermented soybean paste cooked with pork and black sesame. It has a strong smell and a rich, savoury taste, a bit like a very earthy miso. It is worth trying with plain rice, even if the smell puts you off at first.

Fish from the river

At the camps around Shnongpdeng, fish is grilled or fried with light spices. It is often the best meal of the trip, eaten on the riverbank. Ask the camp in the morning so they can get it ready for lunch or dinner.

Snacks and tea

Momos, steamed dumplings with pork, chicken or vegetable filling, are everywhere and make a quick meal between boat rides. For an afternoon break, order red tea (sha saw), which is black tea without milk, usually sweet, with pukhlein, a fried rice-flour and jaggery sweet.

Vegetarians

Khasi food leans heavily on pork. Vegetarians will usually find rice, dal, mixed vegetables and vegetable momos, but choice is thin. Say clearly that you want no meat and no meat stock, and carry snacks for long days.

Practical notes

Eat lunch in Dawki or at your camp. There is very little on the road back to Shillong until Pynursla. Small places usually take cash only. See where to eat in Dawki for the kitchens listed here.