What to Eat in Lamayuru Today?

Skyu, the village one-pot

Skyu is the dish to look out for. Small pieces of wheat dough are pressed flat with the thumb, then cooked in a thick stew with root vegetables and often meat. It is the food of cold kitchens and long winters, and homestays tend to cook it better than restaurants. Ask your host a few hours ahead, as it is not always on the stove.

Thukpa and momos

Thukpa is a noodle soup, with vegetables or meat in a clear, mild broth. After a cold morning at the monastery it is the easiest thing to order. Momos are steamed dumplings with a chilli dip, available almost anywhere that serves food. Both are usually offered in vegetarian and meat versions.

Tingmo with stew

Tingmo is a soft, steamed bread with twisted layers. It has little taste on its own and is meant for dipping into a vegetable or meat stew. It keeps you full on a long drive to Kargil or Leh.

Butter tea

Gur-gur cha is tea churned with butter and salt. First-timers expect sweet chai and are surprised. Think of it as a hot, salty broth rather than tea. At altitude it keeps you warm and tops up salt and fat, which is why you will be offered it in every home. Accept at least one cup; your host will keep refilling it, so leave it full when you have had enough.

Eating well at altitude

Drink plenty of water, go easy on alcohol for the first days above 3,000 m, and prefer freshly cooked hot food. Meat supply is thinner in winter, so vegetarian choices can be more reliable then. Most kitchens here serve lunch and an early dinner; do not count on late meals.