What to Wear in Mawlynnong

The weather you are dressing for

The village sits on the southern slopes of the Khasi Hills, facing the plains of Bangladesh, and it catches the monsoon head-on. From June to September expect rain most days, often heavy. October and November are warm by day and fresh at night. December to February brings cool mornings and cold evenings, so a fleece or light jacket is worth packing. By April and May the days are warm and sticky, with storms building in the afternoon.

Shoes matter most

The lanes are paved in stone, and the paths to the Riwai root bridge and the Balancing Rock are steps and packed earth. Moss and wet roots are slippery for much of the year. Trail shoes or walking sandals with a good sole are better than fashion trainers. Leave heels and smooth leather soles at home. In the monsoon, quick-drying sandals with straps work well, and leech socks help on forest paths.

Modest and practical

Mawlynnong is a Christian village, and many people dress neatly. Nobody expects visitors to cover up the way a temple would, but very short shorts and beachwear stand out. If you go into the Church of the Epiphany, cover your shoulders and take off your cap. A light scarf does both jobs.

Khasi dress

Khasi women wear the jainsem, two lengths of cloth pinned at the shoulders into a loose, straight dress. It is often worn with a checked shawl, the tapmohkhlieh, wrapped over the head or shoulders in cold weather. Brocade versions called dhara are kept for festivals and weddings. Handwoven Khasi shawls in maroon, black and cream make a practical souvenir that you will actually use on a cold evening. Shillong's markets have more choice than the village stalls.

Colours for photos

The backdrop is green almost everywhere. Rust, maroon, cream and mustard stand out against the leaves; forest green disappears into them. On a grey monsoon day, a red or yellow rain jacket lifts the whole picture.