What to Eat in Nainital Today?

The home dishes

Bhatt ki churkani is a dark, earthy curry of black soybean, cooked slowly in an iron pan and eaten with rice. Aloo ke gutke are potatoes tossed with red chilli and jakhya, a small crunchy seed found in the Kumaon hills. Kumaoni raita is the surprise for most visitors: cucumber in curd with ground mustard seed, which gives it a sharp, nose-tingling bite. Together they make the core of a Kumaoni thali.

The sweets

Bal mithai looks like a brown fudge covered in tiny white sugar balls. It is made from roasted khoya and is the best-known sweet of Kumaon. Singori is khoya wrapped in a cone of malu leaf, which gives it a faint green scent. Both come from the Almora side of the hills, and in Nainital you will find them in sweet shops along the Mall Road and in Bara Bazaar. Buy bal mithai in a sealed box if you are carrying it home.

Hill snacks and Tibetan food

Momos and thukpa are everywhere, especially around the Tibetan market at Mallital, and a hot bowl works well on a cold evening. Roasted corn is sold along the lake in season.

How to eat well here

Many Mall Road restaurants serve the same North Indian and Chinese menu. Ask whether a Kumaoni thali is available, or whether the kitchen makes bhatt ki churkani that day. Home-style dishes are easier to find at lunch than at dinner. For where to sit down, see where to eat.