What to Eat in Pahalgam Today?

Trout, the local speciality

The cold, clear waters of the Lidder valley suit trout, and fish farms and river beats around Pahalgam supply the town's kitchens. Kashmiri trout fry is the dish to try: a whole fish or fillets fried with a light spice coating, served with rice or bread. Some places also cook it in a Kashmiri gravy. It is at its best at lunch, fresh from the farm.

Meat dishes

Rogan josh, lamb in a deep red gravy coloured with Kashmiri chilli, is on almost every menu. It is aromatic rather than hot. Wazwan is the full Kashmiri feast of slow-cooked mutton dishes, traditionally served at weddings on a shared copper platter. In Pahalgam you will usually find its best-known dishes served individually, or as a small set platter.

For vegetarians

Kashmiri dum aloo is the vegetarian standard: small potatoes fried, then simmered in a yoghurt and chilli gravy with fennel and dried ginger. Pahalgam also has pure-vegetarian restaurants catering for pilgrims, which serve North Indian thalis and snacks year-round and in large numbers during the Yatra.

Kahwa

Kahwa, green tea with saffron, cardamom and almonds, is poured in every café and hotel. A cup by the river on a cold morning is part of the Pahalgam routine.

Eating during the Yatra

During the Amarnath Yatra, from early July to late August, many pilgrims keep to vegetarian food, and some restaurants change their menus accordingly. Community kitchens called langars run along the route for registered pilgrims.

Practical notes

Trout is priced by weight in many places, so ask before ordering. Most restaurants are on the main street and along the river. Outside the season, many close early. For specific places, see where to eat in Pahalgam.