What to Wear in Gangtok
In Gangtok you dress for two climates on one trip. The town is mild most of the year, but the day trip to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La climbs past 3,700 metres, where it can be freezing even when town feels like spring.
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Town and the high road
Gangtok sits at about 1,650 metres. Summer afternoons rarely go past the mid-20s, and winter nights drop to about 4–7°C. A sweater and a light jacket cover most days in town. The Tsomgo and Nathu La trip is different. You gain more than 2,000 metres in a morning, and there is wind, snow and often ice at the top. Take a proper warm jacket, a hat, gloves and thick socks, even in May. Stalls on the way up often rent long coats and boots if you arrive under-dressed.
Rain
From June to September it rains hard and often, and July is the wettest month. Pack a real rain jacket rather than a poncho, quick-dry trousers and a spare pair of socks. Umbrellas help in town but not on the windy high road. Mist also keeps clothes damp, so bring one more layer than you think you need.
Shoes
Gangtok's roads are steep, and lanes between levels are often stairs. Wear shoes with a good grip. Snow boots are useful at Tsomgo in winter and spring. Trainers are fine on MG Marg.
At monasteries
Cover shoulders and knees at Enchey, Rumtek and the smaller gompas. Take your shoes off where others do, usually at the door of the prayer hall. Remove hats inside. Slip-on shoes make this easier on a day with several stops.
Traditional dress
The bakhu, or kho, is the Bhutia robe. It is a long wrap tied with a silk belt. Women wear it over a silk blouse called a honju, often with coral and turquoise jewellery. Nepali families wear the daura-suruwal for men and the gunyu-cholo for women, with a dhaka topi cap on formal days. You will see these most at Losar, Losoong and Dashain, and at weddings. Lal Market and the shops around MG Marg sell both. Some photo studios rent them for pictures.
Colours
Maroon, deep red and mustard stand out against grey mist and white snow. Pale colours can disappear against a cloudy sky at the lake.
Questions
Gangtok — FAQ
Can I wear shorts in Gangtok?
In town on a warm day, yes, though most locals don't. Wear trousers or a long skirt for monasteries, and never for Tsomgo or Nathu La, where it is cold.
Do I need snow boots for Tsomgo Lake?
From about December to April there is often snow and ice at the lake, so waterproof boots with grip help a lot. Stalls on the way up often rent gumboots if you don't have them.
Is it all right for visitors to wear a bakhu?
Yes. Locals are usually pleased to see visitors in a bakhu, and studios rent them for photos. Wear it properly, with the belt, and don't treat it as a costume at a monastery.
What should I pack for Gangtok in October?
Light layers, a warm jacket for evenings, and full winter wear for the Tsomgo and Nathu La trip. Rain is rare by October, but keep a light shell just in case.