What to Eat in Kohima Today?

How a Naga meal works

A typical meal in Kohima is a plate of rice with a meat dish, a bowl of boiled greens and one or two chutneys. The cooking uses little oil. The flavour comes from smoke, fermentation and chilli instead. Much of the heat sits in the chutney on the side, so you can control it.

The dishes to try

Smoked pork with axone is the classic Naga dish. The pork is smoked over the kitchen fire and cooked with axone, a fermented soybean paste also called akhuni. The smell is strong, a little like aged cheese, and the taste is deep and savoury.

Galho is a thick rice porridge cooked with greens, vegetables and often smoked meat. It is mild and filling, and a good first dish if you are nervous about the spice.

Bamboo shoot curry uses fresh or fermented shoots, which give a sharp, sour taste. Bamboo shoot turns up in many Naga dishes as a souring agent.

A Naga thali puts all of this on one plate: rice, smoked pork, boiled greens, bamboo shoot and chutneys. Order one early in your trip to find out what you like.

Raja mircha chutney is made from the king chilli, one of the hottest chillies in the world. Start with a tiny amount on the edge of your plate.

Eating as a vegetarian

Vegetarians can eat well on rice, boiled greens, bamboo shoot dishes, and dal in the Indian-style kitchens. Meat and fish stocks and fermented fish can turn up in dishes that look vegetarian. Say clearly what you do not eat, and ask what has gone into the pot.

Heat, smell and manners

Axone and fermented bamboo shoot smell strong, and some hotels ask guests not to cook them in the rooms. The king chilli is serious; wash your hands after touching it and keep it away from your eyes. Pork is the centre of most feasts, so tell your host early if you do not eat it.

At the Hornbill Festival

The food stalls at Kisama are one of the easiest ways to taste many tribes' cooking in one afternoon. The festival has also held a king chilli eating contest, which is fun to watch.