What to Wear in Kolkata

Humid, not dry

The city is close to sea level and near the Bay of Bengal, so the air is damp for most of the year. From March to October, expect sticky heat. Handloom cotton, khadi and linen dry fastest and feel cooler than synthetics. Pale colours help in the sun. Jeans are fine in the evening but heavy by midday.

Winter is mild

From about December to January, mornings and nights turn cool, and a light jacket, cardigan or shawl is enough. Heavy woollens are rarely needed. Dawn trips to the ghats or the flower market are the times you will want a layer.

The monsoon

From June to September, rain can flood streets within an hour, and the water is not clean. Wear rubber sandals or floaters with a good grip, and leave leather and suede at home. Quick-dry trousers or knee-length skirts cope better than long hems. A small umbrella is more useful than a heavy raincoat in the heat.

Temples and the Math

At Kalighat, Dakshineswar and Belur Math, cover your shoulders and knees, and expect to leave your shoes at a counter. A scarf in your bag covers you for any stop. Mosques and churches in the centre expect the same modest standard.

Dressing for the Pujas

Durga Puja is when Kolkata dresses up. Many people buy new clothes for each day. Women wear cotton or silk saris, and men wear a panjabi, the Bengali kurta, often with a dhuti. On the last day, married women in red-and-white lal-paar saris smear each other with vermilion in sindoor khela. For pandal-hopping at night, pick comfortable shoes over smart ones, because you will walk for hours.

Where to shop

Gariahat, in the south, is the busiest market for saris and handloom. Hatibagan, in the north, is good for festive wear and dhuti-panjabi sets. New Market, near Esplanade, has everything from kurtas to leather goods. Bargain at the street stalls. Shop fixed-price for handloom if you want to be sure of the weave.