What to Wear in Varanasi
In Varanasi you will spend the day going in and out of temples, climbing ghat steps and walking wet, narrow lanes. Dress for that first, then for the season.
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Temples and ghats
Cover your shoulders and knees for Kashi Vishwanath and the other temples, and on the ghats in general. A long cotton kurta, loose trousers or a long skirt, and a light stole are enough. The stole also works as a head cover if a shrine asks for one, and as a scarf on a cold boat.
Shoes
You take your shoes off at every temple, and the lanes are often wet, muddy or dirty from cattle. Wear sandals or slip-ons with a good grip that you do not mind getting dirty. The ghat steps are uneven and slippery near the water, so avoid heels and smooth soles.
Season by season
April to June is very hot, often above 40 °C, and by June the air turns heavy and humid before the rains. Wear loose, pale cotton or linen, a hat, and keep a scarf for the sun. July to September is sticky and wet; quick-dry clothes and waterproof sandals work better than an umbrella in the crowded lanes. November to February is the surprise: mornings can drop close to 5 °C, and dawn fog on the river is cold and damp. Bring a warm jacket, a shawl and socks for the sunrise boat ride.
Banarasi silk
Banarasi saris and brocades are made on handlooms and powerlooms across the city, and the name is a registered Geographical Indication. Look in Vishwanath Gali and around Godowlia, or ask your hotel to point you to an established shop. Be wary of rickshaw drivers and guides who offer to take you to a "weavers' co-operative"; they are usually paid a commission on what you buy. A silk kurta-pajama is the men's equivalent for a festival evening.
Colours
White, cream and saffron suit the ghats at dawn. Deep red and gold stand out at the aarti after dark. See the photo spots for where each looks best.
Questions
Varanasi — FAQ
Can I wear shorts in Varanasi?
You can around your hotel or a café at Assi, but not at temples, and they draw stares on the ghats. Loose trousers are cooler than they sound in the heat.
What should I wear on a sunrise boat ride in winter?
A warm jacket, a shawl or scarf and closed shoes. From December to February the river is cold and damp at dawn, often in fog, and much colder than the lanes.
Is there a dress code at Kashi Vishwanath?
For general darshan, cover your shoulders and knees. Some special rituals have stricter rules, so check with the temple trust if you have booked one.
Where can I buy a real Banarasi saree?
Established shops around Godowlia and Vishwanath Gali, or a showroom your hotel trusts. Avoid shops a guide or driver takes you to unasked; the price usually includes their commission.