Where to Eat in Varanasi
Most of Varanasi's best food is sold from small counters in the old city, not from restaurants. Pick by the hour of the day and the part of town you will be in.
1 place
Bhelupur
1 place
Harha
1 place
Kachori Gali
1 place
Teliabagh
Not sure what to order? The Varanasi food guide starts from the dishes — what each one is, when to eat it, and which of these kitchens is known for it.
Godowlia, before the aarti
Godowlia is the crossing at the top of the road down to Dashashwamedh Ghat. Kashi Chaat Bhandar here is known for tamatar chaat, and also serves palak chaat and aloo tikki. Go in the early evening, eat standing up, then walk down to the river for the aarti. It gets very busy after about 6 pm, and in the festival months even busier.
Kachori Gali, for lassi
Kachori Gali is one of the old-city lanes near Manikarnika. Blue Lassi Shop is a tiny room with a few benches, where fruit lassis are made to order in clay cups. The walls are covered in photos and notes left by travellers. Funeral processions to the burning ghat pass along this lane, so step aside and let them through. It is cash only, so carry small notes.
Thatheri Bazaar, for paan
Thatheri Bazaar is the old metalworkers' market in the lanes of the old city. Keshav Tambul Bhandar is listed here for classic Banarasi paan; ask for the sweet one. It is a good last stop after dinner.
Teliabagh, for a sit-down meal
If you want a table, a fan and a full plate, Baati Chokha in Teliabagh serves litti chokha and Purvanchal-style thalis in a room made to look like a village house. It is away from the ghats, so combine it with a trip to the Cantonment or Sarnath.
Before you go
Cash is still useful in the old city, although most counters now take UPI. Many shops close for a few days around big festivals, or open late. Tap water is not safe to drink, so carry a bottle. For the dishes themselves, read the food guide.
Questions
Varanasi — FAQ
Where should I eat in Varanasi?
4 places are listed here, across 4 areas. Each entry says what that kitchen is known for rather than reprinting its menu, so pick by the dish you want and the area you'll be in.
Are there good vegetarian restaurants in Varanasi?
Yes — 2 of the places listed are pure vegetarian, and the food-type badge on every card tells you before you set out.
What should I order in Varanasi?
Start from the dishes rather than the restaurants — the Varanasi food guide covers what each dish is and when to eat it, then links to the places that do it well.
Where is Blue Lassi in Varanasi?
In Kachori Gali, a lane in the old city close to Manikarnika Ghat. Ask for directions from the ghat; the lanes are hard to follow on a phone map.
Can I pay by card at food stalls in Varanasi?
Rarely. Most counters take UPI, and cash always works. Carry small notes for the lanes.
Where can I eat a sit-down thali?
Baati Chokha in Teliabagh serves litti chokha and Purvanchal thalis at proper tables. It is a short auto ride from the Cantonment and well away from the ghats.
Which area is best for street food in the evening?
Godowlia and the road down to Dashashwamedh Ghat, just before the aarti. The chaat counters are at their busiest then.