What to Wear in Leh

The daily swing

Leh is a high desert. In summer the afternoon sun is strong and it can feel warm in a T-shirt, but the temperature drops sharply once the sun goes down. At the passes, such as Khardung La and Chang La, it can be near freezing even in July, with a cold wind. Pack a thermal base layer, a fleece and a light down or padded jacket, and carry the jacket on every day trip.

Sun and dry air

The UV is intense at this altitude. Wear good sunglasses, a hat with a brim or a cap, and high-factor sunscreen, and reapply it. The air is very dry, so lip balm and moisturiser matter more than you might expect. A buff or scarf helps against dust on the roads to Pangong and Nubra.

Shoes

Trainers are fine for the town, but the old-town lanes and monastery steps are steep and uneven. Trekking shoes with a good grip are the safer choice for Thiksey, the palace and the Shanti Stupa steps. In winter, insulated boots are needed.

Inside monasteries

Gompas expect covered shoulders and knees. Take off your shoes before entering prayer halls, and remove your hat. Walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels. These rules apply at Thiksey and the gompas around Leh Palace.

The goncha and the perak

The goncha is the traditional Ladakhi robe, a long woollen coat tied at the waist with a sash. You will see older residents wear it daily and many more at festivals. The perak is a women's headdress studded with turquoise, passed down through families and worn at weddings and festivals. It is an heirloom, not a costume, so admire it and ask before you take a photo.

Buying in Leh

The main bazaar sells fleeces, jackets, gloves and woollen caps if you arrive under-packed. Pashmina shawls are sold everywhere; buy from shops that explain the origin and weave, and expect prices to vary widely. For the months and temperatures, see the best time to visit page.