What to Eat in Shillong Today?

How a Khasi meal works

A Khasi meal starts with rice and adds one or two meat dishes, a chutney and some greens. Pork is the favourite meat, followed by chicken and fish. Flavour comes from ginger, onion, black sesame, local herbs and fermented soybean rather than heavy spice, although a fiery chilli chutney usually sits on the side.

Jadoh

Jadoh is the dish to start with: rice cooked with pork or chicken and spices until it turns reddish and rich. In small Khasi eateries it often comes with a choice of meat dishes on the side. It is a lunchtime meal, and the best kitchens can run out by mid-afternoon.

Doh-neiiong

Doh-neiiong is pork cooked in a dark gravy of roasted black sesame, with ginger and onion. It is nutty and deep rather than hot, and it goes with plain rice or jadoh.

Tungrymbai

Tungrymbai is fermented soybean cooked with pork, sesame and spices. The smell is strong and the taste is savoury and sharp. If you like Japanese natto or strong cheese, you will probably like it.

Pumaloi

Pumaloi is powdered rice steamed into a soft, plain cake. It is the vegetarian dish on the list, and Khasi families eat it alongside meat curries rather than on its own.

Momos

Momos are everywhere, from street stalls to cafés. Pork momos are the local favourite, and chicken and vegetable are easy to find. They make a quick snack between sights.

Vegetarians and other diets

Khasi cooking is heavily meat-based, and pork appears in most traditional dishes. Vegetarians will eat well at the city's North Indian and multi-cuisine restaurants, but should ask clearly in Khasi eateries. Tell the kitchen if you do not eat pork; it is often in dishes that do not say so.