Shillong

A hill capital on the Khasi plateau

Shillong spreads across a ring of pine-covered ridges in the Khasi Hills, at roughly 1,500 metres, rising to 1,965 metres at Shillong Peak. The British made it the capital of undivided Assam, and it is now the capital of Meghalaya. The old nickname, "Scotland of the East", comes from the rolling hills and the cool, damp air. The city itself is busier than the nickname suggests: steep one-way roads, heavy traffic around Police Bazaar, and houses stacked up every slope.

Khasi culture, churches and guitars

Most people you meet will be Khasi. Khasi society is matrilineal, so family names and inheritance pass through the mother, and the youngest daughter traditionally keeps the family home. At the 2011 census, Christians were the largest group in the city, with a large Hindu population too, and a minority who follow the indigenous Khasi faith. English is an official language of Meghalaya and is widely spoken. Sunday is a church day, and many local shops open late or stay shut. Music runs deep here: church choirs, rock bands and the live evenings at Café Shillong in Laitumkhrah.

Getting there and getting around

Shillong has no railway. Most visitors fly or take the train to Guwahati, about 100 km away, then go up by shared taxi or cab; the drive usually takes about three hours, longer in traffic or rain. Shillong Airport at Umroi, about 30 km north of the city, has only a few flights. In town, local taxis are the easiest way around. The centre is walkable but hilly, and footpaths are narrow.

Where your time goes

Ward's Lake and the Police Bazaar shops are a short walk apart in the centre. Elephant Falls and Shillong Peak sit on the Upper Shillong side and fit into one morning. You pass Umiam Lake on the Guwahati road on the way in, and Laitlum Canyons is a half-day trip about 25 km out.

Day trips further out

Shillong is the usual base for Cherrapunji (Sohra), Dawki and Mawlynnong. At Dawki, the Umngot river is only glass-clear in the dry months, roughly November to April, and boating stops in heavy rain. The double-decker root bridge at Nongriat means a steep descent of thousands of steps, and the same climb back, so treat it as a full day.

The weather in short

The monsoon arrives in June, which is usually the wettest month, and rain often carries on into October. October to April is drier and clearer. January nights can drop to around 5°C, so pack a proper warm layer.