Nagarjuna Sagar

Telangana · India

Nagarjuna Sagar

Home to one of the world's tallest masonry dams across the Krishna, and to Nagarjunakonda — an island museum preserving the relics of a great ancient Buddhist civilisation submerged by the reservoir.

Nagarjuna Sagar is dam-and-Buddhist Telangana: the giant Krishna dam and reservoir, the Nagarjunakonda island museum of Ikshvaku-era Buddhist ruins, the Ethipothala falls, a tiger reserve, and Telugu food.

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A dam and a drowned city

Nagarjuna Sagar is two stories in one place. The first is the dam: a wall of granite masonry across the Krishna, begun in 1955 and finished in the late 1960s. It created one of India's largest reservoirs. The second is what the water covered. The valley here was once Vijayapuri, the capital of the Ikshvaku kings in the 3rd and 4th centuries CE and a major centre of Buddhist learning linked to the philosopher Acharya Nagarjuna. Before the flooding, archaeologists excavated the valley and moved its most important monuments to higher ground. Some went to a hilltop that is now an island, and others went to the reservoir's edge.

Two states, one reservoir

The dam straddles the Telangana–Andhra Pradesh border. The Telangana side, around Hill Colony, has the Buddhavanam heritage park and most of the tourism hotels. Nagarjunakonda Island, Ethipothala Falls and Anupu lie on the Andhra Pradesh side, around Vijayapuri South. You cross the river below the dam to go between them, and it takes only a few minutes by road.

Planning the day

The island decides everything. Launches to Nagarjunakonda usually leave at set times in the morning and early afternoon. Each crossing takes about 45 minutes, and you get a fixed time ashore. The museum on the island is closed on Fridays. Take the first launch, and then fit the dam viewpoints, Ethipothala and Anupu around your return. Stay overnight if you also want Buddhavanam, because a day trip from Hyderabad, about 150 km away, leaves little slack.

When the gates open

In a good monsoon, the reservoir fills and the dam's crest gates are raised, usually between August and October. A wall of water pours down the spillway, and crowds drive in from across both states to watch. It is the most dramatic time to come. It is also the most crowded, and roads near the dam can be jammed at weekends.

Food and stays

The food is simple Telugu fare: tamarind pulihora, sour gongura, ragi sangati with curry, and biryani. See what to eat. Choices are limited, so the tourism-run hotels near the dam are often the easiest option for meals as well as rooms.

Questions

Nagarjuna Sagar — FAQ

Is Nagarjuna Sagar in Telangana or Andhra Pradesh?

Both. The dam straddles the state border. Hill Colony and Buddhavanam are in Telangana, while Nagarjunakonda Island, Ethipothala Falls and Anupu are on the Andhra Pradesh side.

Can I visit Nagarjuna Sagar as a day trip from Hyderabad?

Yes, but it is a long day. The drive is about 150 km, or three to four hours each way, and the island launch runs at fixed times. Leave Hyderabad very early to catch the first launch.

Who was Nagarjuna?

Acharya Nagarjuna was a Buddhist philosopher of around the 2nd century CE, founder of the Madhyamaka school. Tradition links him to this valley, and the site and dam are named after him.

What happened to the ancient city under the reservoir?

Before the valley flooded, archaeologists excavated it and moved key stupas, monasteries and structures to Nagarjunakonda hill, now an island, and to Anupu. The rest is under water.

Which day should I avoid at Nagarjuna Sagar?

Friday, because the Nagarjunakonda museum is closed. Launches may still run for the island, but you would miss the museum's sculptures and relics.