Ranikhet

An army town on a pine ridge

Ranikhet sits at about 1,870 m on a ridge in Almora district, in the Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand. The name means the queen's field. Local legend says Rani Padmini, queen of a Katyuri king, loved the spot so much that her husband made it her home. The British set up a cantonment here in 1869, and the army has shaped the town ever since. It is the home of the Kumaon Regimental Centre and the Naga Regiment, and much of the ridge is army land.

Why the town feels different

Because the army runs so much of Ranikhet, it is cleaner and quieter than most hill stations. There is no lake crowded with boats and no long Mall Road of shops, as there is in Nainital, about 60 km away. Instead you get pine and oak forest, wide parade grounds, old stone buildings and long walks with few people on them. The market, the bus stand and most hotels sit around Sadar Bazaar, and the cantonment spreads along the ridge above.

What to see

The Jhula Devi Temple, about 7 km out on the Chaubatia road, is hung with thousands of brass bells left by people whose wishes came true. A little further on, the Chaubatia Gardens are government fruit orchards and a research station that date back to the 1860s. From there a forest path leads down to Bhalu Dam, a small old reservoir in the woods. On the Almora side, the army's nine-hole golf course at Upat sits on an open meadow, and the hamlet of Majkhali has a wide view of the snow peaks.

The regiment and its museum

The Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum tells the story of the Kumaon and Naga Regiments through medals, uniforms, captured weapons and old photographs. It is inside the cantonment, so expect your ID to be checked at the gate. Photography is not allowed inside. It is usually open in the daytime, but army events can change that, so ask in town before you go.

Cameras in a cantonment

Take photos of the forests, the temples and the mountains freely. Do not photograph army gates, sentries, barracks, vehicles or soldiers on duty, and do not fly a drone anywhere near the cantonment. If a soldier asks you to put your camera away or delete a photo, do it.

Getting there

The nearest railway station is Kathgodam, about three hours away by road. The nearest airport is Pantnagar. Almora is about 50 km away, and many visitors combine the two towns with Kausani. See the best time to visit for the seasons.