Peshawri (ITC Mughal)

Peshawri, ITC Mughal

Peshawri is the Agra branch of ITC's famous North-West Frontier chain, and it is the most consistently high-rated restaurant in the city — around 4.7 from more than 2,500 reviews, which at that volume is a serious number. It is also the most expensive meal most visitors will eat in Agra.

What to order

• Dal Bukhara — the dish the chain is famous for. Black lentils cooked overnight with tomato, ginger and butter until they are dark, glossy and rich enough to be a meal on their own. Some Agra menus list it as Dal Bahmani.
• Raan and lamb chops — spice-grilled, and the strongest things out of the tandoor.
• Tandoori chicken — the reference version.
• The giant naan — enormous, blistered, torn at the table. Order it even if you think you do not need bread.
• Paneer and vegetable dishes for vegetarians — the menu is not meat-only and the vegetarian cooking is taken seriously.

The house rule

Peshawri traditionally serves no cutlery. The North-West Frontier premise is that you eat with your hands, and bread is used to scoop. Some branches will bring cutlery if you ask; the experience is better if you do not.

What it is like

An open kitchen you can watch from the dining room, about ninety covers, rustically luxurious rather than glittering, and service that is formal without being stiff. It sits inside ITC Mughal, a large Mughal-garden hotel on Fatehabad Road, roughly ten minutes by car from the Taj.

Practical

• Lunch about 12:30 to 2:45 PM, dinner about 7:00 to 11:45 PM. It is closed between services, so you cannot wander in at 5:00 PM.
• ₹3,000–8,000 for two with drinks. Budget ₹4,000 for a full dinner.
• Reserve. Dinner slots go, particularly in peak season and at weekends.
• Smart casual dress — no shorts or vests for dinner.
• Cards accepted; a service charge is usually added, so check before tipping.
• Non-residents are welcome; you do not need to be staying at the hotel.

The alternative at the same level is Esphahan at The Oberoi Amarvilas, which is more Mughal-courtly in its cooking and has the Taj-view rooms. Peshawri is the better choice if you want tandoor and frontier food; Esphahan if you want the royal thali and the setting.