Mussoorie

Two towns on one ridge

Mussoorie sits at about 2,000 m on a long ridge above the Doon valley, about 35 km by road from Dehradun. It was founded as a British resort in the 1820s, and the old town still runs along the ridge in a line: Library Chowk at the western end, the Mall through the middle, Kulri Bazaar and Picture Palace to the east, and then the steep climb to Landour, the quieter cantonment on the top. Look south and you see the plains and the lights of Dehradun. Look north on a clear day and you see a line of snow peaks.

The Mall and Camel's Back Road

Most visitors spend their evenings on the Mall, the walk between Library and Kulri lined with shops, cafés and snack stalls. For a quieter version of the same walk, take Camel's Back Road, a 3 km loop that leaves the Mall at Kulri and rejoins it at Library, past a rock shaped like a camel's hump and a British cemetery from 1828. Cars are restricted on the Mall, so plan to walk it.

Up to the viewpoints

Gun Hill, the town's second-highest point, is a short ropeway ride above the Mall. Lal Tibba in Landour is higher, and on a clear morning its telescopes pick out the Garhwal peaks. The walk from Kulri up to Landour is steep but short enough to do on foot, and it ends at the Char Dukan cafés for bun tikki and chai.

Out of town

Kempty Falls is about 15 km away on the Kempty road, far lower and warmer than the town, with a pool at the base where people wade. Company Garden is a family park in Happy Valley, near the Tibetan temple. George Everest's old house at Park Estate makes a good half-day walk or drive west of Library.

The crowds and the road

Mussoorie is one of the busiest hill towns in north India. In May and June, over long weekends and between Christmas and New Year, the road from Dehradun can jam for hours and parking fills early. Police often divert traffic and hold back large vehicles at the entry points. Overnight visitors have also been asked to register online before arriving, so check the current rule when you book. Come on a weekday if you can, and leave the car at the hotel once you arrive.

When to come

Spring and autumn are clear and mild. From October the "winter line", a thin band of colour along the horizon at sunset, can appear on some evenings. Snow falls a few times most winters, from December to February, but you cannot plan a trip on it. July to September is very wet, with landslides on the hill roads. The best time to visit page goes through each season.